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Thread: Ultimate Guide to Defending

  1. #1

    Default Ultimate Guide to Defending


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    Contents
    > Introduction & Disclaimer [Any player]
    1) The Basics [Beginner]
    2) Approach to Defending [Beginner]
    3) Activity [Beginner]
    4) Alliance(s) [Beginner]
    5) Enemy Goals and Your Goals [Intermediate]
    6) Mentality [Intermediate]
    7) The Grind [Intermediate]
    8) Simple Tips [Any player]
    9) Dodging [Any player]
    10) Reinforcing [Any player]
    11) Read Your Messages [Any player]
    12) Cutting Catapult Waves [Advanced]
    13) Cutting Chief Waves [Advanced]
    14) Retaking a Stolen Village [Advanced]
    15) The Self-Destruct Button [Advanced]
    16) Drawing Fire [Advanced]
    17) Escaping a Walk Home [Advanced]

  2. #2

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    If you are being farmed, most of this guide is not for you, unless you are willing to spend a LOT of time on the game. If you spend a lot of time on the game, you would have not become a farm in the first place.

    The game is mostly based on YOUR decisions. There are no perfect situations to copy here, it is just a guide on possible things you can do and what you should do and avoid. Every situation is different, so using your brain is the main pre-requisite for any effective action

    The theory in this guide is mainly to guide those players who are under attack and have an acceptable army compared to the attacker(s). However, Some useful tips & pointers for when you are planning and carrying out Defences Well, I hope this will be helpful for you. Enjoy....


    *Disclaimer*
    I cannot take credit for all of this guide/advice. This is a collection of information I have gathered from guides written in the main forum, from my old alliance's forums, personal talks between players I have known, and my own experiences - I have just slapped it all together in a big heap for a player to get everything they need to know in one place, at one time.

    I can take credit for re-writting some parts, and adding some extra information/advice in some areas. but most of the information I found was written by other people, and so I can't take the credit all to myself. I cannot remember all the names of who has written what, so If you know you have written some parts - Feel free to let it be known... And My thanks to you all for providing this information for me to put into this guide. P.S: If some of this guide is your work, please post it - or send me a PM so I can make a list of names credited to the guide.

    Credit List:
    > Brutius (for re-writing some information, adding extra detail/advice and slapping it all into a heap lol)
    > Gowf (a range of information from his defense against attacks guide)
    > Travian Manual & FAQ
    > Travian Wiki
    > Tullia (for the extra posts)
    > Fizzy (for making suggestions on the chiefing section)

    ~Brutius

  3. #3

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    1) The basics
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    Armies can only attack or reinforce from the village that they are created from. Don't be caught with reinforcements in your own villages when you are dodging etc.

    All attacking armies have attack ratings. These are applied with bonuses such as that from your hero or from the blacksmith or even from gold.

    All defending armies have a defense rating to horses and to infantry. The defense rating can be increased by upgrading the unit types in the armory. This improves their defense for every level that you upgrade them - Thus meaning more defense for the same amount of troops.

    You should always have the correct units in a defense army. There is no point having an offensive unit as a defending army - as they will get killed incredibly easily. For Romans, The defensive troops are Praetorians (against infantry), legionnaires (against cavalry), and Equites Caesaris (against cavalry and infantry). For Teutons, The defensive troops are Spearmen (against cavalry), paladins (against infantry), and teutonic knights (against cavalry). For Gauls, The defensive troops are phalanx (against cavalry and infantry), druidriders (against infantry), and Haeduan (against cavalry). However, Equites Caesaris, Teutonic Knights and Haeduan are still used in offense. So only use them in defense when you need to (due to their costs etc).

    Also, villages should ALWAYS have scouts in them. This can be used to notify you when someone else scouts your village, or if you have more scouts than them - Kill their scouts (giving them no information). At least 1 scout should always remain in your village. This is because someone may try to scout you when you are out scouting somewhere else. A decent sized scout army in your village will prevent attacks - As someone would have to be very brave to attack a village they haven't scouted before (and gotten to see troop counts etc). By a decent size, you should look to about 300 scouts in your village (about mid-way in the server's game). This applies to all three tribes.

    The final battle casualties calculation is a compelx interplay of these factors. If you have a plus account check out the simulations in different scenarios and mixes to get an idea of how these work. the more the attackers outnumber (as in the attack ratings vs defense ratings) the defenders, the less the casualties the attackers take in comparison to the ratio.This applies to defense vs attack too. The combat simulator is accessable by all, through your rally point. A Plus account has a more advanced combat simulator, However, the normal account one can be used to give a basic overview of what is likely to happen.

    Alternatively, You can use an "outside" combat simulator to have the same features of the PLUS one. For example, the kirilloid extended combat simulator: http://travian.kirilloid.ru/warsim.php

  4. #4

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    2)Approach to defending
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    The first thing to note is the general picture. You need to take into account the following factors:
    - your own strength, economically, defensively and offensively
    - this includes your own competence as well
    - your alliance if any, how many reinforcements you can expect and how quickly they can get here
    - how far along the server is
    - the enemy strength/competence
    - the enemy alliance
    - *the aims of the enemy attacker(s)
    - *what you want in the end

    The last points I highlight as being part of the "situation" as they are key in deciding your actions or strategy. The first comparison is your respective strengths. Early on, if you are vastly outgunned and have no backup or even if you have an alliance but it looks like a poor one, then I suggest you first try diplomacy, or if you have major ambitions of your own, to restart. You can do more with a mid game restart than with a beginning server under the heel of a major aggressor.

    You should also consider what build your village is. Having a double grannary (two grannaries), in a village can mean you can store a lot of wheat there.... used for training of armies etc. This also links in with great warehouses, great grannarys, great stables, and great barracks' - Which all contribute to the level of troops you can train/hold (which affects your defense).

    Important:
    Many players will claim harassment when being attacked in-game. However, in Travian, multiple attacks are common and not against the rules. Trying to report someone for harassment simply because they attacked in this war-game is always unsuccessful. So make sure that when you get into the frame of mind for defending, that you do not simply think that the attacker is "picking on you", or harassing you - As it is likely he is attacking someone else at the same time, has done so in the past, and is going to do so in the future. It is a WAR game, so do not play if you want ever lasting peace (unless you are one hell of a diplomat).

    Harassment in terms of abusive messages is a violation of rules, and if you send harassing messages to the person attacking you, they can report YOU to the multi-hunter and you may be banned or receive other punishments such as the emptying of all warehouses and removal of troops depending upon the severity of the harassment. So get into a frame of mind where you stay calm, and collective. Do not let personal grudges etc interfere with your decisions... Otherwise you may make a big mistake that you regret later on. This includes how you talk to your attacker. Even if it is not rude or abusive, one mistake by making yourself sound "macho" etc, or taunting the attacker to continue for a response could lead to exactly what you have asked for. So be prepared to follow through what you warn an attacker about (e.g. alliance retaliation).

    Players might attack a player as much as 8-10 times in one second even without using scripts, bots, or other forbidden tools according to the game rules. This is also not harassment, but is simply aggressive and experienced game-play.

  5. #5

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    3) Activity
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    Spending a fair bit of time on the game is the best way to stay ahead and avoid being attacked. Sitters or duals are an excellent way to cover time you are not on. If you Flag up as being inactive, it makes you a prime target for much larger and stronger raiders.

    Being significantly out-powered by opponent(s) is difficult to recover from. At a certain point when one player is stronger than the other, the weaker player just cannot win unless divine intervention occurs.

    You will only appear "active" on travian dope if your population has increased. So it doesn't hurt to come on for 2 minutes a day, and build another level on a wheat field or building etc to stay out of the inactive flag ups. It will also keep your alliance happy, As most alliances have an inactivity policy - In which they will probably make you get a sitter.

    Sitters are the most effective and easiest way of protecting your villages when "inactive", for example you go on holiday or need to sleep. However, You need to make sure you can TRUST your sitter - As some can be untrustworthy, in which case a multihunter can be informed (if needed). However there are No compensations for damages done by sitters... So if your sitter completely ruins your village by the time you come back - There is nothing you can do about it, and just have to repair the damages (or restart it needed) yourself.

  6. #6

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    4) Alliance
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    With the individual strengths, the alliances in question are also important. Depending on how active you and the alliance want to be, a good alliance will be using instant messaging services like skype, IRC, MSN or even a speaking client like x-fire, ventrillo - Or sending IGM's back and forth to each other, or using the forum to communicate to those who check it regularly etc.

    The level of organisation is critical to determining how much help you'll get - organised alliances usually picks active members, which usually means
    - a good level of reinforcements
    - Their distance to you and how soon you can expect reinforcements are something to consider as well.
    - significant political pressure to the player attacking to stop
    - sitters
    - advice and defensive/offensive help/advice from experienced players
    A good alliance is VERY important as a deterrent to attack as well as actual help when attacked. So, JOIN A GOOD ALLIANCE. I cannot stress this enough.

    All in all, a good alliance will have good leadership. You will know when you have good leaders because they get people involved and
    - all or mostly blues/green orbs in their members,
    - a decent average population compared to the other alliances in their area,
    - there is a good structure and organisation with a clear alliance goal or target.
    - try to keep geographically close or organise wings which contain close members. (ie they only recruit from one quadrant of the map)
    - use a instant messaging service. IRC is probably the best of these in my opinion. Skype is a common choice too.
    - the attack reports page is mostly of your alliance members attacking/farming rather than the other way
    - has few CPs or NAPs. Fewer of these mean more farms available to its players
    - numbers or multiple wings do not necessarily mean a good alliance. Quality is far greater than quantity in this game. In fact, alliances with multiple wings early on are generally weak and I would avoid these.
    - eventually you will know a good alliance from a bad one, after being in one for some time.

    - the trend for alliances does change. At the beginning, there are usually some "noob" alliances that rise to the top very quickly due to their incredibly lax attitude towards recruiting. Farms with focus on building population join these, and some players quickly lose interest in the game, or are stifled by better players. Once the better players start to control the game, they join alliances which have similar players. These alliances rise up around the 2 week - 1 month period. The others will fade into dust most of the time. The most reliable predictor is when alliances are at this time, although this is not certain (wars can happen).

  7. #7

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    5)Enemy Goals and your goals
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    Your own targets determines many aspects of your actions. Mostly it will just be to stop the attacks. However, early on, you should be aiming to wipe out the attacker too. A good player will always be trying to control their area and you should be no exception.

    - for attackers raiding, the player just wants resources. He doesn't want much fuss, and he definitely does not want to raid you and get his maces crushed as they arrive home.

    - for attackers trying to take out your offensive army, they are trying to trap it, whether in its base or trying to walk it home (see manoevres, section D below). Be vigilant about such things. Most good aggressive players are easily capable of wiping your army out with such a move. Thankfully, even amonst the experienced demographics, "good" and "aggressive" are not often seen together in a player.

    - attackers trying to damage your village, and wreak havoc have to use catapult waves. Good players use timed tabbed waves which are less than 1 second apart. Some can fit up to 10 or more in one second. Good players also try to cripple one aspect of your village so that it is less easily defended or rebuilt. Examples: 1.Wheat fields/granary/mb (really cripples a village from building anything for a long time) 2. rallypoint/mb (can't send out troops for a while) 3. warehouse/granary/mb (can't build much for a while or recruit a lot of units, but doesnt cripple a village), 4, iron mines/warehouse/mb (cripples a roman player's village) and so on. Note that a main building takes over 40 minutes to build from level 0 to 1.

    - Village takeovers are complex. Players are a lot less likely to give up. If they are unsuccessful at taking it over, they become a little attached to the village. They feel like they need to prove a point and take it over to show the opponent their superiority. At this point, the only things you can do are, keep a large scouting force in that village or destroy his large offensive army somehow. Good players know that the village itself is not worth losing a hammer to, so they are more careful and methodical. Although some still have that over-riding aggression. A good alliance with fast reinfs and a continued vigil (ie sitters/duals) are critical to the success.

  8. #8

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    6) Mentality
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    Strange as it sounds, being aggressively minded is helpful, especially when you are outgunned. If you counterattack successfully, it will not only cause them damage, but make them respect and/or fear you. This is what you want. It will either make diplomacy easier as you have greater mental leverage over the attacker, or you can carrry on grinding and the attacker will be less likely to attack. Although counterattacking is risky, a good situation usually presents itself. Remember if you are vastly outpowered you will most likely never win a 1v1 unless the attacker does something incredibly stupid or unless something really lucky happens (the guy loses his internet connection, he quits, he's suddenly overwhelmed by another opponent etc).

    Mentality and Crannies
    My views on crannies are controversial. Some players love these, but crannies are just a defensive tool, overly using them is the same as capitulating the fight. Dont rely on them if you want to progress somewhere meaningful in the game. One maxed one is enough in my opinion. Any more and you are just inviting the attacker to repeatedly attack you and that means you will never have a meaningful army while the raider is still attacking. Moving troops to another alliance mate is ok for one attack, but repeatedly moving snippets of troops to another player means the attacker will soon be outproducing you at an exponential rate, gaining catapults while you are still in the stone age. At that point in the game, you might as well quit. Use all your resources before an attack and the remainder will be safe with one cranny.

    Incidentally, a lot of players HATE cranny farms. They start catapulting them as soon as they get catas.

    NB: some players suggest that the cranny capacity should be equal to the maximum amount of resources you make whilst you are not online.

    Mentality and Walls
    The importance of walls, while being an integral aspect of your game later on, is more difficult to gauge in the resource empty first few weeks. Having a good level wall, especially as romans imparts great defense bonuses, but also takes away vital iron resources. Think carefully if you want another 5% defense or 10 legionnaires etc. Remember, you will be dodging many attacks, unless you are facing a strong Gaul player with TTs. I would build the first few wall levels, as they are so cheap, but after it gets pricey, stop. Flexibility with troops is more important.

    Mentality and Traps
    Another defensive tool I dont particularly think is useful. Traps cost resources which could be going into your war effort. And they dont kill troops.
    - If you have traps but no troops, what is the point? Your attacker can just attack you again and release his trapped.
    - If you are going to dodge your attacks, why bother with expendable traps?
    - If your army is good enough to defend the attack, why not spend the resource on a higher wall?
    - If your army is weaker, then the attacker will just attack you again to release his troops. Even if your traps do help the defense enough to give it respite from one attack, traps are not flexible enough. You will want to dodge some attacks or defend others. Also, given that a good teuton player can accrue so many maces in a short time, you're gonna need to build a ton of traps just to keep up. Not worth it imo.

    NB: 1. There are some tricks with the trap such as storing settlers (where you attack your own village with your settlers, whom get trapped and can be released by you when needed) and the like and is useful for new players.
    2. version 3.5, to be released in ukx, will increase the number of traps per building. Maybe they will play a part in the earlier games, possibly. However, remember that as the server goes on, armies get pretty ludicrously big, it becomes increasingly obselete.

    Mentality with the unknown
    Attackers are intelligent enough to calculate probable size in defensive garrisons. However, scouting is an important part of the prelude to attacks. Always have a large scouting army somewhere, and at least one scout in every village early on. Later, you will want more each village. Knowing that your opponent knows you know he knows your strength (read that carefully...) can be important as a deterrant. When the game has entered about 3-4 weeks, most players further expanding their raiding targets would not attack comparable sized opponents without scouting him. That's when a large scouting force defending your capital/troop village is important - the psychological impact of having a large scouting force not return makes him very reluctant to attack you as the base thought process is that large scouting defense = a lot of troops to hide. Players do not wish to lose their hammers attacking a village that they do not know about.

    Understanding attacker mentality
    Anyone who has had a successful attacking (raiding) spell knows how easy the game can flow when they are doing well. Resources come in and its just a matter of deciding the target and being active enough to raid everyone around you. However, the attacker mostly wants to "sim attack" rather than really get involved in a proper fight. More often than not, their focus is more on the resources and building up their own troops. So if they attack and you try diplomacy, they will probably decline (unless they're nice of course..). However if they attack you, get nothing repeatedly, and then receive counterattacks which do a lot more damage to their troops than yours, they'll start listening and you'll have their (grudging) respect. Eventually you can become friendly with them or join the same alliance as them, or become a def partner or just a personal alliance/nap. Most players in this situation will not break the nap down the line out of a sense of personal honour.

    Aggressive players also dont like players who half heartedly defend their own villages. For example if you have 100 maces, and raid someone with 5 praetorians each time, the attacker will not stop, but in fact increase their frequency, regardless of whether they get any resources or not. The aim is to stop the defenders accummulating enough to do significant damage to the attacking stack and also for hero experience. Do not give such a pointless reason for the attacker to be attacking you. Dodge the attacks if possible, try hard to make sure the attacker gets nothing. If they get nothing, they are wasting time on attacks or they try to save time by splitting up their attack force. When they send 20 instead of 200 maces, you can defend it, you can cause damage, and you can make it expensive to mess with you.

    Players who like to control their area are the most difficult to deal with. They dont want you in their area as you are
    - a potential threat to them early game when you are both similar in size. Losing a decent attacking army unnecessarily in the very beginning severly stunts an attacking player.
    - a potential threat later as you may have joined a decent rival alliance, can strike out locally and can be reinforced heavily. The larger a player, the more villages they have to micromanage and the more vulnerable they are to attacks.
    - you are competing for raiding local weaker players for resources. The res that they normally bank on being theirs, is now split.
    - early attackers are usually teuton, who have a weak defense and so have this paranoia about the other players rising to power. This is not an unfounded idea, as even a smaller attack on the massive teuton army insde its base can cause a decent loss.
    - they are generally a little xenophobic and have issues with not controlling everything in their 21x21 (the Napoleon complex)
    These players are more complex and each differ. If you are starting to lag behind, restarting is certainly an option (especially romans and gauls). If you have a respectable offensive army compared to him, you can try grinding out a military win, by walking his troops home (see below) and gearing towards cavalry as soon as poss. You will find out who these players are because they will come knocking on your door early in the game, and you will need to resolve this guy early in the game. Finally, you can offer to be a def partner to him. Ultra aggressive players are usually weak in defense and like having a couple of decent defensive players around. Be warned that if you do not prove your worth, you may be farmed or your villages captured.

    Mentality in a diplomatic situation
    Consider why an attacker would stop attacking you. Most new players may think it is a good idea to stop hostilities and focus on building up their own, but a good farmer knows that resources they gain from raiding are often more than the 1 hour per day they can legally get from tributes. To get them to stop, they must have additional incentive. These reasons may be
    - they are naturally peaceful and friendly. These are "weaker" players in the sense that they are playing travian socially, rather than for glory. Many players have some form of a moral code, such as they'll stop attacks when asked, etc. You will usually find these players starting strong, but lag later on.
    - they fear for their own safety and are afraid you may have enough clout to do damage to them. This situation occurs quite often if the attacker is not highly competent. At this point, having the aggressive mentality would help to further improve your chances
    - they are fattening you up. Always be wary that some players are tricky and are waiting until you have a few decent villages to take so they can overrun you and capture your villages later on. Be careful if your relationship after you cease hostilities becomes frosty and there is little mutual exchange.
    - you are a potential ally/subordinate/def partner. For the latter though, be warned that it will probably change your game style if you are doing a lot of defensive troop making.

    Therefore when chatting with other players, always be polite. I cannot stress this enough. You never know when the strategic situation can change, and the other player suddenly realises what a decent player you are or could be. They will think better of you down the line if you have shown to be polite, and can spell and is capable of a logical conversation.
    - good players don't want to mess with good players if both have a chance at winning a fight. Don't give an extra reason for him to attack you by being an ass unless you want to goad him to attack you.
    - being an ass is detrimental to your own success. You will annoy people, they and their friends will gang up on you, and you may lose sometime down the line.
    - being an ass makes it harder for your own alliance to justify your own actions.
    - alliances later on are made from interactions early on. Do your part for the greater good of your alliance
    - be firm with your intentions and words, but not hardlined
    - try to use correct spelling and the like. In my experience, there is nothing more annoying to read than "i lyk dat sheet plz stop atkn mi". It gives the impression that you are mentally incapable of a good interaction. Why would anyone want to make a deal or relationship with what could be their puberty-challenged teenage son?
    - This game isn't diplomatically oriented, its far more war oriented. Therefore, don't flame players for attacking you. They are just excercising their right to play the game in the way they want to. You do not have a moral highground as a victim of aggression. It is part of the game. Get over it, reason with the guy, defend yourself, or don't play.
    - Similarly you should not flame people who use underhand tactics such as spying and lying to gain advantages. You may not like such subversive aspects of the game, but don't be disappointed if others do these things. If it is within the rules to do such things, then it is fair game to do so. I also personally think it adds to the rich vein of travian stratey if these tactics were available.
    - there are lots of childish players on the servers - do not resort to their level. Dont swear on messages, and don't say anything stupid that can get you banned.
    - Your actions and messages have repercussions. Your messages can be saved and used. THINK about what you are writing and why. Alliances and CPs have been broken up and war started in the past just from one poorly phrased or ill thought of message. Players get banned because they wrote sily messages which were racially, sexually or otherwise offensive or in bad taste, even though they may not have meant it.

  9. #9

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    7)The grind
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    Remember, you dont have to always annihilate the other player to get the attacks to stop. Players attack you for all sorts of reasons, but if the cost is too great compared to the reward, they will stop or be more likely to listen to a compromise. One hour's resource per day is a small price to pay for a chance to play the game.

    For a lot of the time, the fight will happen. Two aggressive players in a single area cannot exist without either one leaving or a compromise being made. When they do fight, it is usually either early game or later when they both have a decent offensive force. In either case, the first army to catch the other in their base will win. Therefore, dont keep your army in your base! It should always be on the move. At night, it should go off on a long raid across the map.

    When counterattacking or defending, dont be afraid to commit all your troops. As mentioned before, travian gives better numbers if you go excessive rather than not. Also dont be afraid to lose all your troops in an attack if the damage given/received ratio is decent. Ie if you lose your entire army counterattacking, but end up doing far more damage to his troops, then its well worth it.

    In addition, Hitting the player with everything you have will show him/her that you mean business. And even possibly wonder if you have more troops - And therefore not attack you again, in fear of another retaliation (especially if he lost a lot of troops from your first one). If you do enough damage to him/her ... then you may earn their respect, and therefore they do not think of you as weak, defenseless, a farm etc.

  10. #10

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    8)Simple Tips
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    The easiest way to defend is upgrade the following in your village:

    > Crannies:
    The higher the level/more of them... the more resources you protect after each raid. However, If you come to be in a situation when you are dependent on crannies to a large extend (giving no resources to someone who attacks you 30 times a day for example).... Will only make them want to cat you and try to take out the crannies. There is a 1/20 chance of hitting a cranny on "random" setting for catapulting a village. That means that there is a 19/20 chance that they will hit something more important (if not another cranny). In this situation, it would be best to think about moving to a different location, organizing an alliance attack (to cripple the attacker), diplomacy (to get the attacker to stop), or just the good old hammer resort - if you have a large enough force (and preferably cat's) to destroy the attacker's wheat fields, barracks, stables etc... and if you want, 0 pop them.
    > Wall:
    The higher the level, the more of a defense bonus your troops and village get.
    > Residence:
    The higher the level, the more of a defense bonus your troops and village get
    > Troops:
    The higher the troop count, the easier it will be to defend (obviously). However, If you have had all your troops killed by an attack.. and they continue to return with large numbers, do NOT train new troops. You just waste the resources when they are killed, which could be spent on crannaries etc.

  11. #11

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    9)Dodging
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    A good way to save yourself hassle when it comes to defending, is the technique of "dodging". This is where you transport anything of value, such as troops or resources, from your village to a safe location (such as a fellow alliance member).

    Reinforce a friendly village, and send all your resources to them (to make sure the attacker gets no bounty). This will cause the attacker to lose interest and eventually stop ... and it minimizes your losses - as your troops and resources can be returned after the attacks ; )

    This requires you to notice the attacks. If you do not see them as you are not online, but a sitter does/is online - The sitter can dodge the attacks for you. If they are not online, and neither are you - Then you just have to lose whatever you are going to lose

  12. #12

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    10)Reinforcing
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    Reinforcing your base is not difficult, but timing is important AND you need to be comfortable with how many troops can get where and when. Good alliances often let all their members MM everyone, so if you do ask for reinforcements, make sure you add in all the relevant details
    *coordinates
    *what is needed (more anti cavalry defence or anti infantry defence)
    *when it should arrive, the attacker stats, is it catapult speed etc.
    *your wheat situation, and whether you need wheat (there is no better way of annoying your friends than letting their reinforcements starve!)

    Drawing a whole load of reinforcements from other players and shuffling them behind a high level wall is one of the most effective defences against a large army. Every player involved loses a portion of defence, but the attacker loses it all. When an attacker loses a large army, you will get a long period of peace. However it is rarely a simple case of one attack, one massive army, and one huge defence, - which is why you need to be prepared to think on your feet and organize other defensive calls, or leaving the reinforcements in the base until the attacker gives up.

  13. #13

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    11)Read your messages
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    Many players use the ruse of sending you a message to ascertain if you are online or not, or have inactive you are (aka if you are a farm). Be careful if this happens as players may also use other, neutral players (whom they sit for etc) or even an illegal second account to message you. Although you can't always gain anything from reading or not reading your messages, This is something a lot of the larger players do... So you should always read all your messages - Regardless of who it is from.

    This includes "no subject" messages. Although they may seem like a waste of time, as the person hasn't bothered with a subject, or has forgotten to do so.... Ignoring "no subject" messages may mean you miss out on something important, like an activity check etc.

    Most of the time, people forget or are in a rush so dont bother to put a subject on a message. Even if the message is useless to you, it doesn't hurt to take a look over it - even if you end up ignoring and/or deleting it.

    If you receive a message from someone who has attacked you, or that you think will do soon - You should try not to read it as soon as you come online. This will stop the enemy knowing your online times. However, If the subject of the message seems friendly - you should pursue it... As one more friend is better than one more enemy.

    Agreements:
    Many players come to personal Nap or Confed agreements by messaging each other. It is always good to have another ally, or ceasefire to someone near to you or further away. In the end, it is one less threat/enemy... And it provides you with a better chance of survival.

    Alone, You could be attacked and destroyed by one or two players quite easily. If you are in a collective, for example a list of 5 personal alliance and/or an alliance - Then you have people to support you, provide resources, reinforcements etc.

    When messaging someone for the first time, in your 7x7 etc - It is always a good idea to be polite. A loose tongue can mean the difference between a friend for your entire game, or an enemy for your entire game.

    This links in to reading your messages. If someone offers you a personal confed or nap - And you ignore it. When they start attacking you and go "please stop attacking me"... They can just turn around and say "you had your chance". So think about what each message you receive may lead to... both the benefits and disadvantages - And then come to a conclusion on what you are going to do (ignore, reply etc).

  14. #14

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    12)Cutting Catapult waves
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    Attackers using catapults usually use waves to ensure as much destruction as possible. To do this, attackers use one clearing wave attack, with attack waves of catapults afterwards. In the event that the attacker is using the same second attack method, it is pretty much impossible to cut in between the waves. A lot of players individually send out the waves , and then there is some time between waves.

    Timing some reinforcements to arrive between these waves (so reinforcements arrive after the clearing wave/hammer, and before the cat wave/s) which will result in a good chunk of the attacker's catapults being destroyed. This will severely limit how much damage he can do in future. Most of the attacker's catapult waves are usually weakly guarded, so the reinforcements will suffer only mild loses. The destruction of cat's also results in a long training time to recover from those losses... And so the attack may stop attacking you for some time - Or give up completely in fear of having the same outcome if he attacks you again.

    Very good players sometimes use a fake clearing wave or two so that their main wave comes in the second or third waves, or they change the order randomly. They also purposely create a second or two delay between the fake and actual wave to induce you trying to cut the waves. These guys are tricky and are experienced. You'll find this out from previous attacks on you or your neighbours or you'll find out the hard way. If you get attacked again, you can do an appropriate cut or even multiple cuts. Otherwise, you'll just have to reinforce a LOT or bear the outcome of the attacks.

  15. #15

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    13)Cutting Chief waves
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    This is much like the cutting of the catapult waves. It is the same principles. The only difference is that the Chief waves are easier to tell.

    The attacker's chief villages are unlikely to all have siege workshops that make rams, so they will no doubt use other units for fakes. The other units will be faster, therefore giving you another way of distinguishing from real attacks.

    Sometimes a player will have multiple chiefing villages. You may well have hits on several of your villages from numerous villages owned by the attacker that could all be chiefings. If you're lucky you can dodge a 2 sec counter using separate tabs, its not fullproof, but its not impossible. One way to improve your odds, get your sitters and duals to all try. Only 1 of you needs to be successful.

    If the attacker is good he may well have several hits on each village 30 seconds apart or so, making it impossible to know which is the correct village he is going for, and which set of attacks you need to cut.

    However, different targets will be more likely for the attacker to be chiefing/want to chief. The likely targets will probably in the following order (not always, so this is not 100% reliable):
    > Croppers
    15c's are a PRIME target for chiefings. Due to their rarity, when you have one in your possession - you need to protect it well. As they are very useful for building up large armies... and therefore, everyone wants their hands on it. This is also the same for 9c's... which are also a prefered space for founding a village/conquering an existing village.

    >Offensive villages
    An attacker will most likely go for one of your offensive villages, if you do not have any croppers (or if you were clever, your cropper will be your offensive village). This will be due to the fact that it offers a lot of benefits to the attacker. It will have a large amount of offensive buildings already built (barracks etc) - Meaning the attacker can build an army there quickly and easily. And also it takes your offensive village away from you, so you cannot train an offensive army to retake the lost village as quickly (thus providing a form of protection to the attacker).

    > Strategically placed villages
    If you do not have a cropper, or your offensive village(s) is not getting attacked... It would be safe to say that the attacker is going for a village of strategic importance to him. If one of the villages getting attacked is close to the attacker's villages, or the attacker's alliance... then the attacker is likely to be conquering it to reduce the level of threat to his villages and/or his alliance. This could also be a reason for why they are trying to conquer your cropper and/or offensive village.

    > Bonus villages
    Some villages have their land distribution different to the normal (4,4,4,6). Therefore, an attacker may conquer a village in order to gain the bonus of the land distribution (for example 3,4,5,6). This is unlikely to be the village the attacker is trying to conquer, if he is also attacking your cropper and/or offensive village. However, Sometimes it can be as simple as the attacker just wants the space your village is in (sometimes due to the oasis fields around it).

    It is always hard to tell which village the attacker is likely to be chiefing. So always assess the situation as it comes. If you are still unsure about which village he is going to be chiefing, Protect the one that is the Most beneficial to you. You should protect your croppers and offensive villages etc... However, If you have other villages that are being attacked (and possibly chiefed), that are not as important as your cropper,offensive village, or defensive village - Then protect the ones that are, and let the village go if it turns out he was chiefing it. If you can retake it, then there is little loss. And if you cannot take it, it is better to have the attacker get a less developed and less important village... than you losing your 15c that was build up to produce huge offensive armies in just a few days etc.

    A good way to look at it is "Damage limitation". Do whatever causing you the least loss possible, and/or the most damage/loss to the attacker.

  16. #16

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    14)Retaking a stolen village
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    Retaking your village if taken (with chiefs) is a VERY effective tactic. When someone takes a village, the attacking forces are stationed in that village, and the village is in a vulnerable state... Meaning his offensive troops are sitting ducks there.

    AFTER it has just been captured:
    >The village will not have walls (they vanished when he conquered it)
    >There is an offensive force in that village, which the attacker cannot remove for a few seconds (instead of a defensive force)
    >That village has low loyalty and no Palace/Residence (cannot be hurried by gold.).
    >The attacker also cannot possibly know you are setting up a trap because YOU have that village right up till they take it over.

    The trick is to time your counter attack to land as soon as their last chief arrives. If a player attacks with chieftain waves in one attack, you can cut the waves, and stunt his attack, forcing him to remake chieftains, giving you valuable time for reinforcements.

    If your opponent tries to take over a village by attacks with his main army WITH chiefs, you can really hit him where it hurts.

    In this situation, you are trapping the attacker to destroy his army. However, you can just retake a village because you want it back! As said before, the newly lost village is at its most vulnerable to takeover, so make sure you get your chiefs in as soon as possible. Residence level 1 takes approximately 10 minutes to build, and will no doubt be the first thing built after a takeover, so adjust your strategy accordingly. Time your counter force to hit the village a few seconds, or possibly a few minutes after the village is to be taken over.

    And offensive army is weak in defense... So your offensive army hitting a recently captured village leaves his troops with a low defense, and no bonus (no wall or residence) - Which makes them sitting ducks.

  17. #17

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    15)The Self-destruct button
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    If you do not have chiefs or you really want to annoy the attacker: damage your own village before he can take it. Time your catapult waves to hit your village a minute, or a few seconds before his last chief wave. Hit the village with everything you can, and perform a "self-crop lock" or self destruct sequence. Take out the villages Wheat fields, Grannary, Warehouse, Main Building, Market place, Flour mill and bakery (if you have them).

    No MB means wheat fields take forever to make and he cannot build any other buildings unless his wheat is positive. This also means no residence/palace, no walls, no main building, no granary for a long time - Even with the aid of gold or outside resources.

    No granary also means he can't simply stock up wheat easily. Negative wheat means his troops and reinforcements are going to starve. That means the more defences he puts in, the more he will lose.

    This can be done by you or your friends. If you are 100% going to lose a village and think you wont ever get it back... It is better to let the attacker get the scraps, compared to a full working village in perfect condition (or near enough).

    The attacker will be devastated to see that he has just conquered a village with no wheat fields, no main building, no grannary, no flour mill, and no market place. As now he can not develop it unless he puts a lot of time and resources into recovering from the crop lock situation. One way to stick it to an attack you want to get back at .

  18. #18

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    16)Drawing Fire
    ----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Use strategies that will cause the attacker to attack other places or villages. There are lots of ways around this, but none of them easy. One way is to repeatedly fake him. A player receiving attacks is more likely to be getting defensive. You should throw in some real attacks on his weaker villages to distract him. This will allow time for reinforcements to arrive, defensive calls, alliance attack organization etc.

    Alternatively, Your alliance can assist you by drawing his fire or distracting him... whilst their reinforcements arrive. It may also provide a wake up call to the attacker, that if he continues to attack you - The alliance will start hitting him all at once together. Therefore, he is likely to stop - especially if you get the alliance to send alliance wide fakes to his villages.

  19. #19

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    17)Escaping a Walk home
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    If you have a few seconds before your troops return and the walk home occurs, you can try to move them out manually after the troops arrive, but this is impossible under 5 seconds.

    Therefore you need to send your troops out pre-emptively. How to do this, set up another tab and wait until exactly the moment your troops return home, and as soon as the server is resetting/refreshing your troop count, you OK the reinforcement, and click OK again.

    Anything less than 2 seconds between the two waves is impossible to avoid, you are screwed. But 2+ seconds is possible.

    This is NOT a highly reliable move. Server computing time and connection speed can really mess this up for you. However, given that the only other outcome is destruction of your troops, its always worth a try.

  20. #20
    Junior Gaul Member Blackmane's Avatar
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    thnx that was really helpful

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